Let’s play a word association game. When I say East Carson Street, what’s the
first thing you think of? Bars? Yeah,
sure. There are so many bars and so
little time that many have been known to awaken next to the porcelain throne in
a fetal position. Noise disturbances and
fistfights you say? Hmm…perhaps I should just cut to the chase. Yes, it’s definitely true that East Carson
Street has a reputation for excessive libation and poor decisions, but there’s
a diamond shining among the rough. It’s
time to ignore the ruckus and treat yourself to the food and atmosphere that
Stagioni has waiting for you.
Stagioni resides in the once Le Pommier, after
relocating from their smaller locale in Bloomfield. I rather adore the residential feel you get
when opening the door. A staircase, with
a lovely wooden railing, will greet you before entering the cozy bar area. You could dine there and enjoy watching the
creation of an elegant cocktail, or you may have reserved one of the granite,
tabletops in the dining room.
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| New Fashioned |
Once seated, you’ll anticipate laying your eyes on the
ever-changing, seasonal menu. Some
staple items consistently appear, like their delicate ricotta gnocchi. But I prefer to take the road less
traveled. One dish that stood out
recently was the grilled swordfish with salsa verde. The swordfish was perfectly tender and bathed
in the bold flavors of fresh herbs. Ordering
the fingerling potatoes as a side is a must.
Unlike the many boring potato presentations I’ve encountered, this was a
medley of flavors and textures. Crunchy
pine nuts, salty olive tapenade, and Parmesan cheese worked together to bring
inspiration to what would have been a typical menu item.
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| Grilled Swordfish with Salsa Verde |
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| Fingerling Potatoes |
While dinner has been nothing but stellar, Stagioni’s
Italian take on Sunday brunch has a delicious grip on me. Cara DelSingnore, co-owner and designated
greeter, has seen my mug many a Sunday.
A thoughtful treat of complimentary dried cherry scones and sinfully,
delicious coffee cake (made in house of course) are presented shortly after you
order your bottomless French press coffee.
These sweet morsels keep your hunger at bay while you peruse the menu.
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| Complimentary Sweet Breads with Brunch |
While everything I’ve tried is seasonally delicious, the
steak and eggs is unbelievable. I
usually regret ordering this item at other eateries because the steak portion
is often paltry and overcooked; yet I find myself paying a premium price. Chef and co-owner Stephen Felder has
officially restored my steak-loving faith.
There’s nothing measly or bland about the charred, peppered cut of beef
that consumes your plate. It leaves just
enough room for spicy potato hash (a mix of roasted peppers, potatoes, and
onions) and two fried eggs. The only
thing better than eating medium rare beef, is eating beef with a side of
ricotta pancakes. These are perhaps the
best pancakes I’ve ever eaten. Forget
mountains of whipped cream to hide a less than desirable cake. No, this cake is nakedly divine with the
exception of a drizzle of syrup and dollop of mascarpone. If you don’t close your eyes and make
provocative noises while eating this, I’ll be shocked and disappointed in
you. For less than twenty dollars,
you’ll be completely satisfied well into the dinner hour.
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| Steak and Eggs |
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| Ricotta Pancake |
I know some people avoid East Carson Street, especially
beyond dusk on the weekends. The scene
can be unsavory at times and parking can be an epic nightmare. That said…get over it. Life is too short to let a few annoyances
stand between you and a delectable meal.
Instead, give those rowdy frat boys some high-fives, chime in with the
“woo!” of the passing bachelorette party, and be grateful when you cross
Stagioni’s threshold.
I give Stagioni: 5/5 forks
2104
E Carson Street
Pittsburgh,
PA 15224
412.586.4738
Tip: Make a Tuesday-Thursday night/brunch reservation, or claim an earlier Friday-Saturday
spot to avoid parking fiascos and ghoulish behavior.
